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I recently demonstrated how you could decode or originate edge-style automotive keys and high-security automotive keys on the Gymkana 994 High Security & Edge Cutting Machine by Keyline. And one of the best features about the Gymkana is you essentially use one clamp, one cutter, and one tracer for it all, which is fantastic. Before that, I alluded to the secret weapon of the Gymkana machine, but I mean, undoubtedly not too secret, but it's cool, and that is the M-Jaw. The M-Jaw will allow you to cut home key blanks like an SC1 or a KW1, a great feature.
If you are primarily automotive-based and need to cut Kwikset keys, Schlage keys, or a couple of Y11, every once in a while, the M-Jaw on the Gymkana is an incredible thing.
However, if your primary focus is like residential keys, and you cut many standards, you know Y11, SC1, M1 - that sort of thing. Going with the Gymkana will not be the best option because you want one of the cutter wheels doing all the cutting on all those. It's quick, and it's just better for longevity.
I want these to be clear, so without further ado, let's cut an SC1 key, see how it does, and make sure it works right on a lock.
You will be interacting with the menu. For example, you can go to CODES and type the code. Like a code on the camlock or something (541), pull up the best fit (Hudson) and click NEXT. However, on the next screen, you need to know more about it. When using the M-Jaw, the most helpful screens to cut normal style residential, mailbox keys, and the likes are to go to SEARCH and then to ADVANCED SEARCH. From there, you have all kinds of different options; type the: Key Blank, Card Number, Cylinders, etc. You have sorts of possibilities but take the knowledge that you have.
For example, I will decode this primary SC1 key, cut it, use it on a lock, and see how it does.
Start by going to KEY BLANKS, and type SC1. Hit NEXT, and it's going to show a couple of different code series to run stuff off, just hit Next. Go to Decode, and it will show us how to use the M-Jaw. Side A, Stop 0.
Open up the case at the bottom, loosen up the Allen wrench, and pull the jaw out. Next is to take the M-Jaw and put it into where you pull out the previous jaw. Push till it stops, tighten it down, and that's it. It's that simple to switch them out.
From the screen, there's SIDE A. Slide it down just like the image below, swap it around if it was Side B, and slide it back once down.
Go back to the screen and address STOP 0. It means the back shoulder of the key, just like the image below.
We're going to use the back shoulder stop by putting it into the groove until it stops and it down. It does an outstanding job of holding the key straight.
Put the key that you are going to decode. What we'll do is take the key, put it in, clamp it down, and close the case. As I said, the best part is we're not switching out the cutter. We're not switching off the tracer; we're just switching out the jaw. Since everything is in place, hit NEXT. It will say, 'Please remove the jaw' and 'Please install the jaw: M,' click OK since we've done that. After that, decoding will start.
For a few minutes, decoding is done. A notification will appear. Click OK.
After decoding, take the key out, put the new SC1 blank in, tighten it down, close the case, and hit NEXT. Since the code will be decoded, it will be your mark that you're on the right track. Hit NEXT, and it will be cut.
Alright, so the key is done cutting. Now we'll take it out, and this will be the moment of truth. Clean the key first for the little burrs—time to try it out and see if it will work.
And there you have it. The M-Jaw, in my opinion, hits out of the park. I'm cutting standard residential pipe keys. The clamping mechanism that the M-Jaw uses, I think, is revolutionary. Great job Keyline on that. I'd love to know your thoughts and opinions. Please let me know in the comments below!
