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The full-size Ram ProMaster vans started in production in 2014, the good news is they use the same ignition, so if you're having ignition problems, there's only one ignition you need to fix it.
THE PROBLEM WITH THE RAM PROMASTER IGNITION
The problem is that the physical ignition is breaking, and it's breaking inside of the ignition housing. The long tailpiece is breaking. When I was playing with one, I guess it had something to do with the steering wheel locking and unlocking and constant use. It is wearing it out and eventually breaking them.
The weird part about the phone calls that you're going to get about the problem is that the key is turning, but the vehicle is not starting. Often, when that's the problem, you immediately think that it's a transponder issue. There's some communication, like the chip is bad in the key or the intent is bad, and there's something weird going on there. But in this case, it's neither of those. It's the back of the ignition; the tailpiece is broken. So the bad news is that the ignitions are breaking, but the good news is that the solution to fix it is pretty simple.
THE SOLUTION FOR THE RAM PROMASTER IGNITION
In the notes below is a link to the ignition and the pinning kit. This is the deal; you want to make sure that they can get your customer back on the road as quickly as possible when you run into this problem. And the best way to do that is when you have to replace the ignition, key up your replacement ignition to the customer's original key. It's going to be the most cost-effective and quickest way to get the job done.
HOW TO REMOVE THE BROKEN IGNITION
To get the ignition out of the housing, we have to put the ignition into the accessory position by pushing the tab that'll allow us to pull the ignition out.
There's an access hole right here that's going to allow you to do it.
It can be tough if you don't get it at the right angle. You'll need to use a four or five inches long stick to take the ignition out. I'm going to be using a poke chinger to remove the ignition.
If you struggle to find the access hole, you can remove this little black plastic piece here. Two T15 torque screws hold on it, take those out, and you'll be able to remove the cover.
Take a flashlight, stick it, and then when you go through that hole, you're going to see precisely where you need to go.
Remember: One of the problems with this is when the back of the tailpiece broke off. The key might still turn but won't start the vehicle.
Once you are well-informed, take the existing key and turn it to the accessory position, get the flashlight and come at the most aggressive angle. Do not go straight; go in an angle as far as you can this way towards the ignition.
Once you do that, push the poke chinger up and remove the ignition.
Check if the back-tail piece is broken.
If it is, get the needle nose in there, pull that part out, key up the new one, and then when you go to put it back in, you're just going to do it the exact way you took it off; then you are done.
HOW TO REKEY THE IGNITION
Since we have the ignition out, we now need to take our replacement ASP ignition and take it apart so we can key it up to the customer's existing key. Here is the replacement ignition by ASP. The part number is a C-17-034.
The pinning kit for it is the A-17-117. Inside are different wafers that it comes with for both the door, the ignition, door lock face caps, and some springs, which are handy when you're working with these.
HOW TO REMOVE THE PLUG
Remove the black clip using the little multi-pick tool.
At the end of the ignition, you'll notice this groove.
This little groove needs to get over the right to the allotted slot on the left.
Essentially, when you put the key in and turn it, the groove goes everywhere except to the slot you need it to be. Because of this piece, it can't be in it; it is in the way. That's why it's not allowing you to turn it to the slot.
This piece is spring-loaded; the solution to turn it is to move it up out of the way, then use the key to get the groove to the left into its allotted slot.
You can now remove the plug. Look for the sidebar and start rekeying.
Once the rekeying is done, please put it the same way you took it out. As soon as you turn it back, it's automatically going to snap back into how it originally was, and you're good to go.
Put the clip back on, install it into the customer's vehicle, and not only did you complete the job, but you also saved the day for the customer. That's how you take the ignition out, how you take the ignition apart so you can rekey it.
I hope that this was helpful and informative, so when you get the call, you're going to know exactly what to do and be as efficient as possible. Thank you, and I'll see you next time.
