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4-Way Jaws Explained: Master Key Cutting Like a Pro

If you've ever used a key cutting machine and stared at those 4-way jaws, you might have wondered what all those different jaw settings are for. Some key cutting machines have jaws labeled "A" and "B" or "1" and "2." On a four-way jaw, you’ll typically see labels like "A, B, C, D" or "1, 2, 3, 4," depending on the manufacturer. Now, if you’ve found yourself puzzled by this, don’t worry—you’re not alone! Many locksmiths tend to stick with Jaw A and call it a day. But using only one jaw can lead to issues, especially with double-sided or foreign automotive keys.

Let’s dive into the four-way jaws and how understanding them can improve your key-cutting skills, making your job easier and more precise.

What Are 4-Way Jaws, and Why Do They Matter?

Each jaw setting is designed for specific types of keys, so using the right one can help you avoid problems like:

  • Improper clamping that leads to inaccurate cuts.
  • Keys not sitting flat, which can mess up the duplication process.
  • Keys flying off (a locksmith's worst nightmare mid-cut).

Mastering these jaws can be a game changer for your key-cutting business.

Side A: The Standard

Jaw A (or Jaw 1, depending on the machine) is typically the default for common keys like Kwikset (KW1) and Schlage (SC1). Both the top and bottom parts of this jaw are flat, which means it grips the key on both sides securely.

  • Use this jaw for standard residential and commercial keys.
  • Ensure you match the jaws on both sides of the machine to avoid misalignment.

Pro tip: Always double-check that both sides are clamped with the same jaw setting before you start cutting. Otherwise, you could damage the key or machine.

Side B: The Shallow Cut Specialist

Jaw B (or Jaw 2) works similarly to Jaw A but isn’t as deep, making it ideal for smaller keys like the M1 or certain mailbox keys (RA3, RA4). While some locksmiths try to use Jaw A for these smaller keys, it’s not the best fit.

  • Best for shallower keys like B5, M1, and RA4.
  • Avoid using Jaw A for these types, as it can lead to misaligned cuts.

Side C: Grooved Keys to the Rescue

Jaws C and D are where things get fun (or tricky, depending on your outlook). These jaws have grooves designed for keys that won’t sit properly on a flat surface.

  • Jaw C has a groove on the machine side and is great for keys like the Y159, H75, or B86.
  • When using Jaw C, make sure the key slides into the groove to prevent it from lifting or flying off during the cut.

Using Jaw C is crucial for keys that have less "meat" to clamp onto. If you try to cut these on Jaw A, the key might not stay in place, leading to errors or worse—a flying key!

Side D: Mirroring Side C

Jaw D is basically the mirror image of Jaw C. The difference is that the groove is on the opposite side, making it perfect for other specialty keys like the B10.

  • Jaw D works well for B10 and other keys that need the groove aligned for proper clamping.
  • Ensures the key sits flush with the cutter, preventing any chance of flying or misalignment.

The Tricky B106 Key

One key that gives many locksmiths trouble is the B106 (or B111). You can either use adapters to cut it on Jaw A or, better yet, cut it on Jaw C or D without adapters. Here’s how:

  • Place the B106 key in Jaw D and align the groove.
  • Avoid clamping this key on the flat surface of Jaw A, as it won’t stay put.

With the groove aligned properly, you’ll get a perfect cut every time, without the key slipping or shifting.

Quick Tips for Mastering 4-Way Jaws

  • Download helpful guides from manufacturers like Ilco to get diagrams on jaw settings.
  • Practice clamping the keys in different jaws before the customer is standing over your shoulder watching.
  • Familiarize yourself with the right jaw settings for various key types. This preparation will save you headaches and help avoid mistakes.

Summary: How to Cut Keys Like a Pro

  1. Understand the purpose of each jaw setting—flat for standard keys, grooved for tricky ones.
  2. Use Jaw A for common keys like Kwikset and Schlage.
  3. Switch to Jaw B for smaller keys like mailbox or M1 keys.
  4. Utilize Jaws C and D for grooved keys to ensure a secure clamp.
  5. Practice with the tricky B106 key using Jaw D for a perfect fit.

By mastering these different jaw settings, you’ll be able to cut a wider variety of keys with greater accuracy and efficiency. So next time you’re working on a tricky double-sided automotive key or a small mailbox key, remember to switch those jaws!

    Master these 4-way jaws, and you’ll elevate your key-cutting game to the next level!

    Here is a link to the PDF explaining the 4-way jaws used in the video.

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